Hey guys as alot of you know ive finaly got all my speakers and amps but now all i need is something to power them perfect.
im thinking of wacking on a 70amp altonator with a honda civic type r battrey which fits in the standard hole with an ampage rating of 680 from the top of my head
do i need to change anything else when removing the old altonaator to the new one?
going to change the wire from what ever gauge is standard to 0gauage
anything else?
fan belt just incase for the price of one it’s worth doing
Why would you need to change the wire? All late MPi minis ran a 70A alternator and IIRC all minis have the same batter to starter main cable.
> Why would you need to change the wire? All late MPi minis ran a 70A alternator and IIRC all minis have the same batter to starter main cable.
apprently from what i hear which ill tell you as soon as i stick a tester on it.. you get 25% increese? as im running a orion hcca 10" sub that needs 1500WRMS
> > Why would you need to change the wire? All late MPi minis ran a 70A alternator and IIRC all minis have the same batter to starter main cable.
apprently from what i hear which ill tell you as soon as i stick a tester on it.. you get 25% increese? as im running a orion hcca 10" sub that needs 1500WRMS
you get an increase in what though? the alternator can only give 70A so it won’t give you anymore power by running a different cable.
thing to remember with wiring to amps also is you are fusing the WIRE not the AMP. a common misconception (apologies if teaching you to suck eggs)
> > Why would you need to change the wire? All late MPi minis ran a 70A alternator and IIRC all minis have the same batter to starter main cable.
apprently from what i hear which ill tell you as soon as i stick a tester on it.. you get 25% increese? as im running a orion hcca 10" sub that needs 1500WRMS
Also to run 1500W you would need the following power
12volts x 125A
Does the amp you have have 125A worth of fuses?
> > > Why would you need to change the wire? All late MPi minis ran a 70A alternator and IIRC all minis have the same batter to starter main cable.
apprently from what i hear which ill tell you as soon as i stick a tester on it.. you get 25% increese? as im running a orion hcca 10" sub that needs 1500WRMS
Also to run 1500W you would need the following power
12volts x 125A
Does the amp you have have 125A worth of fuses?
its all to go in but yeh the amps a orion d2400 rms of 1500 at 1ohm ogauge wire and theres 3 x40amp so yeah thats about right i guess
yeh back to the 0gauge im gona try it and see what readings i get befor and arfter i shall tell you results it seems pritty common sence to be honest.. bigger wire bigger flow
p.s mines a 1979 mini running with the standard altonator so my would just be on the safe side and change the wire for bigger amp raiting…
more wire also can result in more heat and resistance.
i would also excercise caution running stereo amp wire under the car as I don not know if the coating is up to the same pounding as a pre-designed cable.
again i am interested in results as i can’t see how bigger wire will harness anymore power from the same alternator.
Yeah i wil let you know buddy! gime a couple of weeks
and ive relised ive made a mess of the topic title haha should b changes to alto not amp DURH
4 guage cable will do the job for what you’re doing. The main power surges will come direct from the battery which i presume is very close to the amp. The cable from alternator to starter, i wouldn’t alter. The existing alternator to battery cable should be sufficient (70amps). I would put in a fuse between alternator & battery, i fried an Astra alternator (80-90amp) with a pair of DLS CAD1000s so you’re close to the knuckle.
the WIDER the cable the less resistance (higher current/amp handling)
the LONGER the cable the resistance increases (in a car i wouldn’t take this into consideration…cheap electrical 2.5mm cable over 100 Metres only as a resistance of 0.5ohms, so chunky car cable around 3-5 metres i wouldn’t think about it)
The only reason i’m using 0 guage is my main amp uses around 800-1000 amps fully cranked
> 4 guage cable will do the job for what you’re doing. The main power surges will come direct from the battery which i presume is very close to the amp. The cable from alternator to starter, i wouldn’t alter. The existing alternator to battery cable should be sufficient (70amps). I would put in a fuse between alternator & battery, i fried an Astra alternator (80-90amp) with a pair of DLS CAD1000s so you’re close to the knuckle.
the WIDER the cable the less resistance (higher current/amp handling)
the LONGER the cable the resistance increases (in a car i wouldn’t take this into consideration…cheap electrical 2.5mm cable over 100 Metres only as a resistance of 0.5ohms, so chunky car cable around 3-5 metres i wouldn’t think about it)
The only reason i’m using 0 guage is my main amp uses around 800-1000 amps fully cranked
ah thats helped out a bomb, not going to consider wasting my money on 0gauge then if i dont need it i need it for my amp and sub but thats it.
i would of loved to of seen if the 0gauge wire would of made a diffrence tho… what fuse do you reccon is needed?
my amp rms is 1200
> > 4 guage cable will do the job for what you’re doing. The main power surges will come direct from the battery which i presume is very close to the amp. The cable from alternator to starter, i wouldn’t alter. The existing alternator to battery cable should be sufficient (70amps). I would put in a fuse between alternator & battery, i fried an Astra alternator (80-90amp) with a pair of DLS CAD1000s so you’re close to the knuckle.
the WIDER the cable the less resistance (higher current/amp handling)
the LONGER the cable the resistance increases (in a car i wouldn’t take this into consideration…cheap electrical 2.5mm cable over 100 Metres only as a resistance of 0.5ohms, so chunky car cable around 3-5 metres i wouldn’t think about it)
The only reason i’m using 0 guage is my main amp uses around 800-1000 amps fully cranked
ah thats helped out a bomb, not going to consider wasting my money on 0gauge then if i dont need it i need it for my amp and sub but thats it.
i would of loved to of seen if the 0gauge wire would of made a diffrence tho… what fuse do you reccon is needed?
my amp rms is 1200
i really don’t think you’d see (or hear) any difference in your set-up going to 0 guage, but at the end of the day it’s up to you & your money! (don’t forget 0 guage accessories etc as well)
when i work out a fuse rating on powerful amps (1000+w) i use a 10v rule (as the current rises…voltage drops, your voltage shouldn’t drop this low, but it allows some headroom for ‘peak’ in the equation) so i would use 1200w divide by 10v = 120amp. you can go conservative and safe with a 100amp fuse, or if your music has some serious bass kicks and you intend to use it! go with a 150amp fuse to allow for peaks.
if your alternator is rated 70amp, put a resettable fuse of this value between battery & alternator. better than driving some distance and then cutting out in some random place with a fried alt, then having to wait for Mr AA to come (i am speaking from experience )
