hello, i fitted ajustable tie bars and i want them setting up is there any companys that do this? ie qwick fit, or other tyre monkys?
I really wouldnt trust them with something critical! I dont even trust them with my exhaust!
Its gonna cost money, but get the whole lot laser-tracked. Bout a hundred notes is one amount I heard from a mate who has had it done. :saywhat:
hmm… guesworks will know where to get them done!
Will he ?..
Do you still have std bottom arms, if so, set the ajdustables to the same length as the standard ones… then that’ll be right…
Personally I don’t see the point of these unless you’re putting in -ve camber bottom arms or adjustable arms… and even then a little extreem for you standard road mini…
If you do go for a fully adjustable suspension then you will need to find a specialist and most of these will be the small racing outfits, some like Southam Minis round here.
sorry rant over !
miniman5 probably thought that as you live near birmingham aswell, so you might know any garages
Demon Tweeks is the only place I know of, which will cost around 100 notes for check, then 25 notes per angle adjustment Bit steep when you set up the lot, caster, camber, tracking on the front, camber and tracking on the back.Thats another 250 notes :saywhat: if all have to be adjusted. It will be right though.
The figures quoted above are somewhere about right as its been a good few years since I enquired.
> hello, i fitted ajustable tie bars and i want them setting up is there any companys that do this? ie qwick fit, or other tyre monkys?
Just set the length the same as the originals and there shouldn’t be a problem unless you have a bent subframe. uhem
ahh well, they are as close to standard as i could get by eye,
if your fitting adjustable bottom arms and tie bars you cannot do it by eye! Castor maybe uneven on each side which can lead to some very very very bad handling and extremely unsafe breaking. I fitted some to my car and as i found out if castor is uneven on either side it leads to breaking sideways budget to get it setup properly or dont do it at all. My setup cost £150 all in from a local racer, i suggest you find your own - £250 +100 inspection is plain daylight robbery
we took my mates hillclimb/sprint mini to gerald dales place near hastings ( he builds/runs a few miglia race cars amongst other exotica) last year for a full set up of the fully adjustable suspension.
it had front/rear corner weights, rear camber/tracking, front camber, tracking, and castor, ride height all round, and this cost £150 plus vat.
bearing in mind all this takes an expert the best part of a day to do, i thought this was pretty good value for money, and has totally transformed the handling of the car.
demon tweeks prices seem to justify their nickname of " demon thieves".
> Personally I don’t see the point of these unless you’re putting in -ve camber bottom arms or adjustable arms… and even then a little extreem for you standard road mini…
I take it you’ve never had one snap then!
I have these fitted to mine and are a far better quality and a lot beefier than the original. Whne i set mine up i put a long bolt through the standard tie rod and both adjustable ones and then adjusted them so that the bit where the rubber sits on lined up the same.
Don’t adjust them to the length of one tie rod for one side and one for the other use the same tie rod to do both that way if one of them is slightly bent they will both be the same length.
Thats why I’ve got a set, not fitted yet tho. Tie rods bend, and I have heard of them snap. Adjustables are about twice the cross-section, and of better material, so are less likely to break!
Its a safety thing to me.
like i said i’ve been bit by shitty tie rods so i wasn’t about to put standard ones back on!
Hmmm no brakes and no steering… nice.
> Thats why I’ve got a set, not fitted yet tho. Tie rods bend, and I have heard of them snap. Adjustables are about twice the cross-section, and of better material, so are less likely to break!
Its a safety thing to me.
i couldnt agree much more with this, when i took one of my old ones of, they weighed the same but the ajustable was twice the thickness! qwite good! i used teh same on, there was only one straight one lol
Think of it this way…
If you hit something then the system is designed to bend ( give ) at the weakest point…
If you change the weak point then something else has to bend ( give ) or worse break…
No I’ve never had a tie rod break, but I’ve bent the odd one or two… ok, 12 quid and I’m back on the road…
With uprated ones, whats going to give, the ball joint, then bottom arm, the wheel… or as I have seen, the bottom of the subframe wrenched apart by the pin which holds the bottom arm !
12 quid vs a subframe… hmmm… let me think !
But if your existing tie rod snaps, its £12 versus a whole lot of destruction and if it goes at speed bye bye mini and possibly life.
Trust me guessworks i speak from experience here!
I don’t deny that you’ve had a bad experience, heaven forbid that anyone should be the victim of suspension failure or any sort at speed, nor that adjustables are of potentially superior quality…
But what I cannot advocate is the blind purchase of an item which, on its own, will make no discernable difference to the handling and function of an otherwise standard suspension.
It’s a matter of opinion.
> I don’t deny that you’ve had a bad experience, heaven forbid that anyone should be the victim of suspension failure or any sort at speed, nor that adjustables are of potentially superior quality…
But what I cannot advocate is the blind purchase of an item which, on its own, will make no discernable difference to the handling and function of an otherwise standard suspension.
It’s a matter of opinion.
I agree. I would only fit the adjustables when fitting negative camber botom arms and I will only fit those to correct the geometry when lowering the car. Adding neg camber and lowering alters geometry and handling, which requires correcting.
Theres no point fitting one without the other and theres no point in fitting any of them without having them set up correctly. It will make the car drive like a bag of brown stuff.
> Think of it this way…
If you hit something then the system is designed to bend ( give ) at the weakest point…
If you change the weak point then something else has to bend ( give ) or worse break…
No I’ve never had a tie rod break, but I’ve bent the odd one or two… ok, 12 quid and I’m back on the road…
With uprated ones, whats going to give, the ball joint, then bottom arm, the wheel… or as I have seen, the bottom of the subframe wrenched apart by the pin which holds the bottom arm !
12 quid vs a subframe… hmmm… let me think !
I’d never thought of it that way. However, from what I can see of the quality of the original, it is not great! I have some neg camber bottom arms on the way, so was gonna wait til I got them (and a new car) to put them on, probably at the same time as negative camber rear brackets and new bushings, knuckles and cones if I can afford them :saywhat: .
> > I don’t deny that you’ve had a bad experience, heaven forbid that anyone should be the victim of suspension failure or any sort at speed, nor that adjustables are of potentially superior quality…
But what I cannot advocate is the blind purchase of an item which, on its own, will make no discernable difference to the handling and function of an otherwise standard suspension.
It’s a matter of opinion.
I agree. I would only fit the adjustables when fitting negative camber botom arms and I will only fit those to correct the geometry when lowering the car. Adding neg camber and lowering alters geometry and handling, which requires correcting.
Theres no point fitting one without the other and theres no point in fitting any of them without having them set up correctly. It will make the car drive like a bag of brown stuff.
when you lower the car you give it negative camber, so how can fitting negative camber bottom arms correct the geometry when you lower it?..all it will do is give you more negative camber, it won’t correct anything.