What could I do to my 998 to get loads of power out of it… on not the highest of budgets?
Charlie
As a general rule if you want more power on a budget then it is more economical to fit a 1275. Otherwise a Stage 1 kit is the way to go. If you go for a replacement panel filter drill the air box. Then you could fit a 12g940 head and improved the cam (mg?).
Craig.
As said above ^^^^^ the easiest way is sometimes to plonk a 1275 engine in. But alot of people do say a 998 can be more fun. 
There are alot of options with a 998, the first and most obvious would be a stage 1 kit (an exhaust, better manifold and air filter).
It really does depend on budget.
If you are fitting a stage 1 yourself then it is gonna cost around 150-200 smackers plus (to really feel the benefit) it will need a rolling road tune afterwards.
Then other options are a camshaft (maybe a 266 or similar) changing cylinder head for 12G940 (but the block would need some machine work) twin carbs (expensive) bigger carb.
It comes down to how much you want to spend Youngun??? :erm:
I have the same problem. My car is very underpowered compaired to my mates cars.
Ok, the twisties are no competition! 
But Motorways and A roads leave me for dead!
Ive been looking at a stage one kit, They are £172 from Minisport. Thing is, Ive got a big fat center exit Back box and a straight though exhaust. But the Stg 1 zaust has a side exit and a second silencer box. Would I beable to fit my “LCB” straight onto the Stg 1 Y piece?
Also, a mate of mine put a Stg 1 on his car and it wouldnt Idle properly.
<|Ben|>
It all depends on the thickness of the pipes, and the link peice *may* need cutting down to fit the additional y piece.
To get any gain out of a stage 1 kit you HAVE to have your car RR’d afterwards, so make sure that is in your budget.
chnage the diff
that gives it a BOOST
> To get any gain out of a stage 1 kit you HAVE to have your car RR’d afterwards, so make sure that is in your budget.
what does RR’d mean?? rolling roaded??
You got it in one babe!!
A 12G940 *may* fit straight on without any modifications. If the car is running a standard cam I would suggest buying a thick gasket and drybuilding it with plasticine applied to see if it will run/touch when turned, (by hand). Hope that makes sence. It is hit and miss. Some people get away with it others need to have parts machined. (Which can be done with a dremmel and steady hand). 
> A 12G940 *may* fit straight on without any modifications. If the car is running a standard cam I would suggest buying a thick gasket and drybuilding it with plasticine applied to see if it will run/touch when turned, (by hand). Hope that makes sence. It is hit and miss. Some people get away with it others need to have parts machined. (Which can be done with a dremmel and steady hand).
Lol, a true botch job!!
on mrs bungles 998 we bought a ebay head , twincarbs , K&N filters , LCB and single box exhaust
when geting set up on a rolling road it made 55 BHP at the fly even with carb problems
all for less than £500
In my opinion it all depends on how much work you want to do yourself. First and foremost the most important thing is to ensure the car is running well in standard trim - plugs, leads, rotor arm, condensor, points, fresh oil and filter, clean air filter. Also ensure parts under the rocker cover are up to scratch - tappet clearences, no play in rocker shaft, everything clean. Only then consider upgrades.
Fitting a set of 1.25" SU twin carbs from an old 998 Cooper S will see a nice improvement in breathing, providing they’re pretty fresh - a refurb kit can be bought for £50, on top of £50ish that you’ll pay for them. It’s not that they pump in more fuel, it’s the air/fuel mixture flow into the engine. With a single carb there’s no way each cylinder can receive the same mixture, but with twins, and straight inlet manifold, the mixture will be virtully the same in each cylinder, meaning better efficiency and maximum power with the fuel you’re using. Add air filters on top of this price too.
Once this is done you’ll need a seperate exhuast manifold. Maniflow appear to be the best, stick with 1.75" LCB, it’s the best shape and diameter for small bore engines, any bigger and you’ll lose power.
Stage 1 kit from Minispares combined with a 12G295 head, (skimmed) and set up on RR approx 55 bhp, add a SW5 or 997 Cooper camshaft approx 60-63 bhp.
In a 998 I would use a 3.76 or 3.65 final drive to let it rev.
> 3.76 or 3.65 final drive
Not comfortable for motorway driving though… 4.5k rpm @ 70 :nugget:
Even a 1275 isn’t gunna be very quick. I’ve got a 1275 stage 1, with a ported/polished head (okay, it hasn’t been rr’d) but it’s pretty slow!
Compared to what sam? My 1275 wih stage 1 kit (pretty much) stays with my mates 1.6 fiesta Si i’d say thats pretty good for a 1275.
I don’t know really. I just thought it would be a bit quicker.
Hopefully it should be better after the rolling road tune, I’d hope it would be a bit quicker then an Si Fiesta, they aren’t all that quick :fear: Only 90bhp iirc..
Still, 2nd gear isn’t too bad
> stick with 1.75" LCB, it’s the best shape and diameter for small bore engines, any bigger and you’ll lose power.
Is that for back pressure?, what kind of pipe can you have after this? if i have a straight through pipe will that add power? what size would the pipe have to be?
> Compared to what sam? My 1275 wih stage 1 kit (pretty much) stays with my mates 1.6 fiesta Si i’d say thats pretty good for a 1275.
Isn’t yours a MG 1275 though?
jimbos is just a metro 1275 non mg 
