Rear Radius Arm Replacement On Mpi

Mini Technical Sections Problems, Questions and Technical
1

**Model: Rover MPi**
**Year: 1998**
**Rear Radius Arm Replacement on MPi**

I hate not being able to finish a job when I start it so I am trying to put together my Minispares “Shopping Basket” so I have everything that I’m likely to need when I replace both rear radius arms (it’s been a long time since I did this job, nearly 30 years so can’t remember >!!! )

Shockers, HiLo’s, Knuckle Joints, Rubber Cones, Hub Backplates, Drums, Wheels Studs all okay and re-useable

  • LH & RH Refurbed Radius Arms (c/w nuts, thrust washer and dust seal)
  • Set of Timken Wheel Bearings (kit c/w seals and O Ring)
  • LH & RH Wheel Hub Nuts (c/w washers and split pins)
  • 2 x 45 deg Grease Nipples
  • 2 x 10" Brake Pipes
  • 2 x Knuckle Joint Nylon Cones
  • 2 x Brake Adjuster Screws and Wedges
  • 2 x sets Brake Shoes (c/w Springs etc.)
  • 2 x Rear Brake Wheel Cylinders

Thinking of changing the Radius Arm Brackets to 1.5 deg Fixed or Adjustable Negative Camber Type but would I probably need to change these brackets anyway? Also, I can’t find the bolts/nuts I need, just know they’ll shear or round off, is it these…

SH605061 SCREW, bracket to subframe 2 off.
LWZ205 WASHER, locking 2 off.
SH605061 SCREW, bracket to subframe 6 off.
LWZ205 WASHER, locking 6 off.
PWZ105 WASHER, plain 4 off

from Somerford’s website - Link

Anything else I may need ???

2

Thise last parts are nothing special, just use normal 5/16" UNF set screws of an appropriate length (about 3/4" from memory), with spring and plain washers to suit.

3

Resorted to “Plan B” and bought 2 recently refurbished Radius Arms c/w Hubs, Brakes and Drums from R1minimagic (thanks Dale) so should make things a bit easier , just a few odds and ends to get like new bolt set etc., oh, and some 1.5 deg negative camber brackets.

4

1.5 negative at the rear is a LOT! In fact - too much I feel. Upright - to just about 0.5 negative is more reasonable. Especially with big wheels!

5

> 1.5 negative at the rear is a LOT! In fact - too much I feel. Upright - to just about 0.5 negative is more reasonable. Especially with big wheels!

What’s the main problem with 1.5 deg on the back when using 13" wheels, wheel bearings or radius arm pivot bush/bearings (or both) ??

Might have a pair of 1.5 deg neg camber arms for sale now

6

Changed the Radius Arms (what a pig) and fitted the 1.5 Deg Neg Brackets (sodding rusted bolts) and also finished the supension off with Minitastic Springs and Adjusters all round !!

Outcome = what an amazing difference, it still needs to settle over the next few miles but my god, how much smoother the ride is. I live on one of those new estates with ramps every 100 metres and would normally have to creep over them in first, well not anymore, just reacts like any other small modern car, there’s not a great deal of spring or travel but it don’t half smooth the ride out!!!
As soon as it’s settled and I can get it set up to the right height we’ll see how it handles and I’ll report back.

Few photos attached below (only photos of back as once you fitted the front you can’t see them !!)

7

I just replaced one radius arm last week, in addition to the items you lists I required a new clevis pin at the handbrake cable fixing, new handbrake actuator (scissors?) and a new pivot pin for the handbrake quadrant. I would also replace the whole of the knuckle joint not just the plastic cup - they’re only £4 each.