Just putting the back end of Petal back together with some nice new spangly adjustable camber brackets… but, while I’m there, I was going to dial out as much of the toe in ( tracking ) as possible by the use of shims.
Does anyone have a crafty method of checking the tracking at the rear without having to resort to going to the local ‘Kwik-fit’ ???
The camber I check with a large square and plumb-bob…
Thanks.
I think there are a set of drawings and measurements in the Haynes comic which should help. Failing that, get a long straight edge and run it from the front wheel (making sure its straight) and do it that way. But unfortunatly its gonna be a case of a propper tracking set up to get it fully right.
Ah ha.. found this in the MiniMania forum ( Thread URL )
> Get the camber adj brackets fitted, then set car on ground. Run string round all 4 wheels/tyres (I use nylon string, a rubber band tied on one end looped around something convenient (toe eyes on racer), then tied to the other towing eye. The string is to pass through the horizontal centreline of the wheels/tyres. Measure the gap between the srting and leading edge of the rear tyres on both sides - this will tell you if there is any bias and what side it is. Get the tracking measured (for those witghout gauges and nobody local that can help - buy a TOOL11 tracking gauge - peanuts in cost and easy/convenient to use). Hopefully you will have toe-in. To reduce this or get toe-out (racers only I warn here), simply fit shims between the adj camber bracket and the subframe. The shims can be sheet steel or aluminium.
**Keith Calver**
Have not found too many details on what TOOL11 looks like, but by understanding is of this is… ( picture )
The indicated gap shows the Toe-in, if the gap’s at the rear of the wheel then you have toe out…
I also make the asumption that this method can be used on the front aswell… and alsong as you make the ‘gap’ the same on both sides then geometry says the wheels will be inline with the center of the vehicle and hence does not crab !
