purchasing a mini

It’s my 17th birthday next month and im hoping to get a car. I’ve been looking about at all sorts of cars & i’ve decided that a mini sounds the best for insurance & value/performance for money.

I know very little about minis & not entirely sure what i want. Budget of about £1000 but could prob go slightly higher but would be nice to have some change! I want a fairly good runner in pretty good condition, something that isnt going to break down all the time & break my heart! I will do modifications to it eventually (or even straight away :tongue: ).

I’d just like a bit of advice on what year, engine, special edition? & what areas to look at when viewing a car.

If you have Februarys miniworld pg. 130, end column, 2nd down, ‘Mini jet black’ for £800 seemed reasonable but i dont know! Thats just an idea though.

Thanks for any help guys!

Kieran

First bit of advice, Learn to drive before you get your car…

I didnt, when I was 16 I went out and bought my first Land Rover, (I’d had a mini already) I ended up spending more and more money on my car and less and less on lessons.

Im now nearly 19, I havent even yet had my driving test, (shall be in a few weeks time) I’ve got a Land Rover and a Mk1.

do try not to make the same mistake i made if you do get the car now, dont forget to learn to drive as well as have the car :cheese:

thanks, im not planning to buy now, just find out what to look for so i can have a browse in the mags and on the net so if i do see a bargain i can grab it. If i did purchase before i could drive i would put the car down my nans and pretend i didnt own it, i would not start buying stuff first. I will be getting lessons for my birthday anyway.

remember to include in your budget that you will need to pay insurance and at 17 that’ll usually cost more than your first car. Of course with a 988cc mini it will be as low as you can get it but still have a car thats allot of fun… do remember tho only 1996 on mini’s have airbags and side-impact protection.

Take your time looking for your first mini, search for posts on these forums for what to look out for (i.e. Rust) and if you can try to get one with 12months MOT mini’s need allot of work but if you find one thats had the important bits done (brakes, good tyres, etc.) you’ll save yourself allot of trouble in the long run. But the best advice it to take someone with you to test-drive and who knows what to look out for… experience is invaluable.

i’ve already looked into insurance and the mini is one of the cheapest cars i can find, thats why i would like change out of my £1000 lol

If at all possible, take a mechanic with you to look at it too! Or maybe even someone local to you off the forum would be willing to help? I would say generally to look out for tinworm (rust) check underneath the Mini (the sills, the floor, the subframes) if possible try and look in the boot floor (unless it’s carpeted out). Check things like turning the steering a little bit and rocking it from left to right (just a few degrees each way to see if you can hear any klunking). Then it’s a case of seeing how it drives, make sure it doesn’t pull to one side, make sure there are no noises when you drive or brake etc.

The main thing is the rust though really (as most people on the forum will verify)!!!

don’t be put off by a little bit of rust, it depends how bad it is and where it is, you don’t want any holes but a little bit bubbling under the paint in places is fairly normal, just check and make sure it isn’t anything more sinister .

i heard that minis were quite bad for rust from someone else. I was told to check the Rear subframe & mounts, Sills, Wings, A panels and Boot floor

Check the roof is in good condition, as its hard to replace the roof.

does anyone have any suggestion on the engine or parts that are preferable for it to have? i know the early 80s dont have disc brakes

yeah, I forgot to mention the A panels, if they are rotten, it is likely that there is rot behind them too. It is a common problem area for minis and can mean quite a bit of work to put it right. Like Don’t Panic said though, don’t be put off by all of these comments, some rust is minor, it’s just that you need to be aware of how bad it can be! lol

try and get a mini 1984 on as they come with disc brakes as standard. also i would suggest finding one where the scuttle (wind screen surround panel) isn’t rusty as it can be expensive to rectify. a 998cc sounds like the one to go for mate!

This is the advice that i was given on another forum, it is not a mini dedicated forum so i just want to check if it is accurate or just opinionated

If you are wanting a Mini, your best bet financially is a 1 litre with disc brakes, they were standard on all models in the late 80’s. You then have a good base to start with. Suspension wise they were all the same, unless you go for an older hydroelastic set-up (C**p but comfy).

Mini’s do not have coil springs as standard, they have what is commonly known as “Rubber Doughnuts” which sit on top of trumpets. The old way of lowering mini’s was to cut the trumpets a bit, but this is bloody dangerous and adjustable kits are only about £100. You can buy coil overs and the price is between £300 and £500. I don’t think it is worth doing this for the road, as mini’s are very stiff as standard and are one of the best handling cars. I had spax adjustable shocks with adjusta-ride trumpets fitted and that was amazing.

Brakes: Standard is a 2 piston caliper on 8.4 inch discs front and drums on the rear. These are surprisingly good (I have managed to get the back of the cars off the deck under heavy braking), but an easy upgrade is to get the 4 pot calipers and vented discs from a metro turbo. You will need discs, calipers and a brake line kit (Mini’s are 2 line, metro’s are 4 line). You can go silly with the brakes, there is a kit on the go with 10 pot calipers, but that’s just wasting money on stuff. Braided lines are always good to have and a good working servo.

Engine wise you can fit anything you want, seriously, v6, v8, 16valve…they all fit. To the original a-series you can mod the engine in all sorts of ways. The engine comes with a 5 port head, 3 exhaust ports and 2 inlet ports. This is not very good but can be modded quite well. You can get 7 port conversions and 8 port…or my choice…kad 16 valve head, coming in at about £3500. You can fit the metro turbo engine but this involves cutting the bulkhead to fit a box, as the turbo sits too far back.

If you buy a 1 litre the first thing to do is fit a 1275, there is no point in spending a load of money modding a 1 litre when you can fit a 1275 for £50 and get the same power. The mini 1275 came with 65bhp but if you can get the MG Metro 1275 it came with 75bhp. You can hear some wild claims of 150bhp at the wheels of a 1380 mini, yeah its possible, but not in a daily driver. The things that can be done to the engine are almost endless so I’m not going to list them, but on a safety note…never lighten the standard flywheel as they are cast and this weakens them, they can then explode…and guess where the shrapnel will go.

Wheels: Huge choice of wheels from 10 inch to 15’s. Minilights are my personal favourite, these are available in magnesium, ultra strong and lightweight, but cost about twice as much as the standard ones. If you are to fit 10inch wheels, which look fantastic, you will need a different brake set-up. You can either fit the Cooper 7 inch discs (almost as bad as drum brakes) or you can fit the 7.5 inch Cooper S set-up. These kits are available new but cost around £500, a better bet would be to have a look round auto jumbles and classic car shows, but you are still looking at about £100 plus a rebuild kit. 12 inch wheels are the norm and came standard on most later model Mini’s, including the Cooper (not Sportspack models), so you can get a set of Cooper Minilight style wheels second hand quite cheap, but I don’t think they are wide enough and they don’t have much of a dish on them. Many people fit 7 x 13 inch wheels which look very good, but this affects handling and also damages wheel bearings. Any bigger than that and you are just being silly and will need to do a lot of bodywork. The late models of the Cooper came as the Sportspack, they had 13 inch Sportspack alloys, they are like a modern Minilight but they are not to my taste. To fit these wheels you will need the Sportspack arches, you will need to cut your wings back to fit them.

Body Mods: Most people will just fit arches and get chrome parts if they came with black bits. But you can be a bit mad. There was a kit on the go called the Fortec, huge bubble arches and huge wheels. I am not sure if these are still available. Zeemax also make a kit and it comes in at about £700, but does look good. There is the ERA Turbo body kit, which is a replica of the body kit fitted to the limited run ERA Turbo. Arches are available from little chrome trim to 5 inches wide. If you were going to be fitting a vtec or Vauxhall 16 valve engine you will need to extend the front end by 3 inches, unless you buy a clubman (square front) which have more space as standard. Almost all body panels are available in carbon fibre or fibreglass. A popular mod is to fit a flip front, this is where the entire front body panels hinge forward (wings, bonnet and front panel), you will need to fit extra bracing to do this, as you are weakening the cars structure.
Some people de-seam their Mini’s, this is not something I like, this is when you remove all the guttering on the car and give it a smooth shape. The problem with this is now the rain just runs into the top of your doorframe and you get soaked when you open the door.

At the end of the day it is all down to personal taste and budget, but your money will go a lot further on a mini than it will on any other car I can think of. One of the best bits of advice I can give you is join a mini club, I can almost guarantee that you will never join a more friendly and helpful club……..and there is always someone willing to come and look at a car for you.

A very detailed reply, and he makes some good points, ideally you want a 84on mini so you have front disks, don’t worry about a servo tho, this won’t add anything to braking it will just make the car easier to drive (lighter feel to the brakes)

yes its better to mod a 1275cc than a 998cc, as you get more for your money, but your insurance will sky-rocket if you mod your engine, get quotes for standard 998 and standard 1275 and decide what you want to spend on insurance. either modded will be expensive.

I’ve not heard of lightened flywheels exploding, maybe if they arn’t done right, theres people on here that know more about this than me, but either way i don’t think you need to be consider this its a modification you can do without on your first mini.

as for wheels, stick to whatever is on the car when you get it, likewise for bodykits and such, these are things you can save up for and when you get some NCB you can mod your mini. For now your looking for a running first car, so make sure it goes, stops, turns etc… all the important stuff! more important that its mechanically sound than looks the dogs B******s, I know the feeling that you want to attract allot of attention ‘looks at my car’ :fear: . But its not cool when your sat at the side of the road waiting for a tow because you paided for alloys and a bodykit than a reliable motor.

Good Luck

> I know the feeling that you want to attract allot of attention ‘looks at my car’  :fear:  . But its not cool when your sat at the side of the road waiting for a tow because you paided for alloys and a bodykit than a reliable motor.

Sound advice!

cheers mate, i am a sound believer in go before show!

Dont know if this will help but every in my family said no when I said I wanted a car because at the time I had’nt passed my test (I still hav’nt lol) but I got it now now every one is ok. I payed over a grand for it and have payed just under £1200 for insurance.

MMR

listen, buy your car after you’ve passed your test, because (especially a mini) it wil rot away on the drive. thats what mine did.

when buying a mini, look for rust, rust and rust. a panels, valances, doors, headlight area, windscreen, sills, everywhere. dont buy too cheap, as it will cost you loads in the long run. the problem is with minis, generally, to keep the costs down, you need to fork out the dosh in the first place, or have a lot of knowledge, or a friend that does.

you’ll never beat the fun in a mini, but my advice is, if you’re on a tight budget and can only just about to afford the mini, then dont bother, cz you need money on the side to spend on the car when you’ve got it.

i hope you make the right choice. good luck.

im looking for a mini at the moment, and one with mot, minimal rust, etc wil cost me at least 1500 pound, and i would advise you to go for something similar.

dont forget, some pre 1988 minis ran on 4 star, so check that aswell, because you want unleaded for ease of use.

good luck with your lessons and test.

keep us posted.

> dont forget, some pre 1988 minis ran on 4 star, so check that aswell, because you want unleaded for ease of use.
Mines '88 and runs on leaded :wink:

ahh yes, good point crocstar, some older mini’s use leaded petrol, although the additive to use for these cars isn’t overly expensive its something you probably won’t want to bother with.

also if you wait till you’ve past your test you might be able to save up your pennies so you’ll have more options and get a better car :cheese: