I have removed the old exhaust manifold and am trying to remove the lamda sensor. It will not budge, i have applied liberal amounts of WD40, vineger and i have tryed using a ring spanner but it will not fit over the electrical connectors at the end.
So..
Can i remove the connectors to allow me to put a ring spanner on without damaging the sensor?
Can i remove the sensor without damaging the ECU? I have taken the catalyst off so i dont need it really. But it might cause an MOT failure.
If i cant remove it and end up stripping the threads or damaging it in the process is there anywhere i can get another?
You can buy them from most Mini spares shops. But they ain’t cheap, Somerford wanted nearly £70, and i got mine from MiniSpeed which was nearly £60!!.
I don’t see why you can’t cut the wires between the connector and sensor then just reconnect them with crimp connections once you’ve finished. my new sensor didn’t have a connector on it, just came with crimp connectors so you could use the old one. i would suggest getting loads of heat onto it if you can to see if it will budge then…
One other issue is (i think i’m right in saying) that the Lam sensor is sensing O2 levels in the exhaust and adjusts amount of fuel accordingly. therefore even if you take the cat off you need the Lam sensor. if you disconnect it i think you will have to reset your ecu once reconnected. i hope that makes some sense.
PS. Why not do what i have just done and rip the hole injection system out and put a carb back on it. had loads of trouble with mine and i think it’s a C**p system (just personal opinion)..
i had to do this on my MPI, it is a pain in the balls to do!! but it does come out!!
Get the manifold in a vice, find a open ended spanner that fits perfectly, and heat the bottom of the lamdba sensor up, i had the manifold red, but tried to avoid heating the sensor up too much.. it does come out, n don’t do what i did, and grab the end of the spanner after heating it up with a oxycetolene burner for 10 mins!
OUCH to say the least!
either that, or if the manifold is scrap, you cud cut it out..
When i say cut it out, i mean by cutting the manifold around it, and getting closer each time!
if i can remember rightly, i used a hammer once the manifold around the sensor was hot to 1. hit the spanner and try and shock the sensor, and to tap around the thread to try and loosen it up!
My experience with O2 sensors (what you’re calling a Lamda sensor) is that they are indeed very tight. Do Mini sensors have one wire, three wires, or five wires? The old Bosch style had a single lead and you can easily cut the wire to put a large, heavy socket on there. They also make special sockets with slots down their walls to clear the sensor wires. I’d avoid the open end spanner approach. If the fit isn’t perfect or the wrench slips you’ll have rounded it to the point it won’t come out. Heat can help, but do try and focus the heat on the manifold. Yes, they’re designed to run hot, but the butt end isn’t made for that, only the nose and mounting threads. If you cut the wire, be sure to securely crimp or solder the ends back together and coat the splice with sealant. It’s very important that you not have contact resistance (from rust or a poor connection) at the splice.
Generic units will typically work just as well as the OEM part. Again, I have no experience with Mini sensors so you’ll need to talk to an expert over there about which ones are suitable for your cars. (For reference, a generic sensor over her may run as little as 15 GBP while the OEM part may cost 60 GBP for something like a Honda part). When putting the old sensor in your new exhaust (or putting a new generic one in) this is a place that REALLY benefits from the use of high-temperature anti-seize compound.
by the way, just because you’ve pulled the CAT doesn’t mean you don’t need the sensor. Most engine management systems locate the sensor way ahead of the CAT. The sensor monitors the oxygen in the exhaust and uses that information to control the fuel/air mixture. Don’t try running without it. You should be able to disconnect the sensor with the ignition off without causing any need to reset the ECU. The device isn’t sending a signal to the computer when the power is off.
> PS. Why not do what i have just done and rip the hole injection system out and put a carb back on it. had loads of trouble with mine and i think it’s a C**p system (just personal opinion)..
I think ur right on this one, although i would love to do this i havent got much money and wouldnt it be quite a difficult task? what about MOT issues?
Im gonna make the most of what ive got for the moment
i’ll let you know at the weekend, as it’s going in on saturday. MOT man said as long as the emissions can get down to 3.5% CO level it will pass, considering it was over 12% with the injection system on!!! and no way of adjusting it without going to the garage!!
Just replaced mine this evening. Purchased it from the place above with a socket to remove it. You will need to splice the plug onto the new sensor but instructions are included . I bought the sensor and both sockets with postage for less than 50 notes. Buy the crow foot socket because they should be changed around 30000miles or two years and the socket just makes it easier as you won’t have to remove the injection manifold. The split socket will not fit
You need the four wire sensor with two white one black and one grey wire.
A friend down the road has a SPi Cooper the same as mine, it smells like it is running very rich and ‘chuggy’ if that is a word, could that be to do with this sensor?
> A friend down the road has a SPi Cooper the same as mine, it smells like it is running very rich and ‘chuggy’ if that is a word, could that be to do with this sensor?
It could well be…
Ive read many times how delicate these sensors are, a simply knock could break them (so im told) sinse it checks oxygen levels and ajusts accordingly if no input is coming from the sensor it might well cause the car to run rich.
Although, i have been told that spi’s run rich characteristically
I had a similar problem where my spi was running particuarly rich, check the valve clearances perhaps, made a world of difference, though i dont know whether this has anything to do with the fuel mixture.
I have managed to remove the lambda sensor from the old manifold, i just cut the wires and put a ring spanner over and it came out no problem although i am slightly bothered i may have damaged it with my previous attempts at getting it to move. :sad:
I will make sure that there is plenty of anti seize compound on when i put it in the new manifold.
I crimped the wires back together using some plastic wire linking device things, i am hoping this will not affect the operation of the sensor.
Supose I’m lucky, or stupid as some may say, in that I bought a Crypton Advanced Checkmate Terminal (ACT) for fifty quid and can now access the usualy difficult to get at information such as lambda sensor volts. This is how I found out mine was duff, it was stuck high and never moved. Changed it for a new sensor I had knocking about, but that was stuck low Ordered a new one fitted it and it now works great. I now have no missfire at idle.
For 25 quid I would advise changing it for a new one, the old one will only cause running problems sooner rather than later, treat it like a spark plug. You wouldn’t use a set of plugs much past thier service life so do the same with the lambda sensor. Unless you take it to a garage or buy a diagnostic, there realy isn’t any way in telling that it is or isnt working properly, other than half guessing at it when you’ve got a missfire or loss of power.
The thing is a *Female doggy* to change with the Injection manifold fitted. A 22mm crow foot socket makes it easier but particularly difficult to remove sensors will require the removal of the injection manifold :nugget:
Sorry to drag up an old thread but i have a 1993 carb with a cat and the carbon filter thing in the left hand wing.
There is a thing mounted in the manifold downpipe that i thought was a lamda sensor but it is not connected to anything apart from it has a metal pipe coming out of it that is capped off?
Is this a lamda sensor and can i remove it as it probably isnt needed??
