I am having some overheating and run on problems. I have a 1330 with 10.5 to 1 compression 266 kent cam 45d distibutor. I initially had the timing set at 12 degees at 1000 rpm. I backed it off to 8 degrees and it seems to be worse when it comes to running on when i turn it off. can to low of timing cause runon and alsol what do alolt of you run your timing at initial and fully advanced mine distributor dosent seem to have alot of built in mechanical advance. Thanks
help anyone
What radiator do you have fitted and do you also have an extra electric auxiliary cooling fan fitted too?
Have you checked the bob weights and springs haven’t stuck ? To do this, strip the dizzy so you can see the bob weights. Then hold the shaft at the bottom, now turn the rotor arm end whilst looking at the bob weights. As you turn the dizzy you should see the weights swing out.
Do they still move ?
If not, you need to clean the dizzy out, I usually use a paint brush and thinners. After you’ve cleaned them and got 'em moving again, they need oiling, so they won’t seize up again for a while anyway.
i have the stock 1275 radiator and no i dont have a extra electric fan. I will check ut the dizzy because i used my adjustable timing light once t see how many degrees at say 4000 rpm and it seemed to be around 20 im guessing it should be more around 30-40 degrees btdc. Any other tips on timing would help. Initial and total timing figures Anyone ? Also if it only 20 degrees would that cause it to overheat not having enough timing ?
> i have the stock 1275 radiator and no i dont have a extra electric fan. I will check ut the dizzy because i used my adjustable timing light once t see how many degrees at say 4000 rpm and it seemed to be around 20 im guessing it should be more around 30-40 degrees btdc. Any other tips on timing would help. Initial and total timing figures Anyone ? Also if it only 20 degrees would that cause it to overheat not having enough timing ?
Incorrect ignition timing will cause overheating, WHEN you’ve checked the bob weights & springs and got 'em moving again. Set the timing to around 30 degree’s at 3000rpms.
It sounds as though your dizzy may not have sufficient mechanical advance available. A switch to a better dizzy, such as an Aldon ‘Red’ may well sort out this problem.
Most Minis with higher comp ratios tend to ‘run’on’ after switching off. We used to laugh about getting to a breakfast stop on a rally, switching off the Cooper ‘S’ and finding it still ‘running-on’ when we came to re-start after eating.
My '64 rally car car always runs-on and I just leave it in gear with the clutch down, switch off and let the clutch up. That’s fine then.
