guys i am attempting to change the steering rack this weekend if weather is all good as will be doing it on the driveway
what is best way to go about taking it out , ANY TIPS WOULD BE AMAZING!!
Cheers
Dan
Plenty of silicon anesthetic and a sharp knife! (couldnt resist)
I would disconect the tie rods to the wheels first, then disconect it from the steering wheel. and then, with help, undo the rack from the shell, and take it out. but then i have never done it.
I would actually like to know this my self properly, i am considering fitting a quick rack at some point.
Bump.
> Bump.
The best way to do this is as above, remove the steering column shaft by undoing the pinch bolt at the bottom of the column, then slacken off the steering column support bracket and slide the whole assembly upwards just enough to part the column shaft form the splined rack shaft.
Pull away the front carpets form the toe board and slacken off then remove the 4 nuts and washers the hold the “u” shaped rack clamps in place. The rack is basically ready to come out now but further work is needed to extricate the rack from behind the front subframe as follows:
Securely jack the front of the car up on axle stands but do not rest these on the front subframe as this has to be lowered soon.
Remove both front wheels and then remove the track rod end nuts and split these joints.
At the back of the subframe, slacken off the rear mounts as well as the two towers bolts (4 for older Minis) slightly.
Now support the whole front subframe on a stout piece of wood and a trolly jack to take the weight. Completely remove the tower bolts and rear mount nuts and bolts then CAREFULLY lower the subframe very slowly, not forgetting the entire weight of the engine/gearbox rests on your trolley jack! This should now give you enough clearance to “slide” the rack out from the right or left hand side.
And as the good ol’ Haynes manual says “refitting the rack etc is a straight reversal of the dismantling method”! I would recommend changing the “u” clamp nuts and the plastic straps that go over the clamps when re-fitting.
Before fitting the track rod ends to the new rack it will need to be centralised, that is the steering wheel number of turns from lock-to-lock will need to be counted and then divided by two to get a rough central position for the steering wheel.
Your first job when its all back together is to take it to your nearest reputable tyre place and have the tracking done to prevent weird steering effects or worn tyres!
Hope my memory has served me correctly ahd you find this useful!!!
Steve
It would also be a good idea to measure, centre to centre, the distance between the track-rod ends on your old steering rack.
Haynes says it should be 1053mm
