hi
whats the best way to do a bare metal respray.
i dont plan to do the spraying myself but i plan to do the preparation myself.
basicly i want to take the car down to bare metal ready for spraying.
any info would be great
cheers
rich
Hi Rich,
Basically take everything of the car i.e. glass, bumpers, door handles etc and go and buy 5lts of automobile nitromors, a paint brush and a paint scraper.
Good luck
I have said this in quite a few posts, but only because it is great stuff.
If you are going to bare metal once you have stripped all the paint etc off,
treat it with POR15 metal ready, it will zinc coat the metal and help it last a lot longer
Metal ready on frost site (clicky)
cheers
shaz
yeh ive heard about that zinc coating, its supposed to be pretty good.
is that metal ready stuff good to use on the outside of the shell aswell?
I’ve got me a bare shell in the garage that i’m going to prep and paint before i build it, so i want to make sure i’ve got the best fighting chance of keeping the rust at bay for as long as possible.
I was planning on using the metal ready all over, then giving the underneath a few coats of black paint and then covering in underseal.
trouble is i’m unsure of what needs to be done on the places that you’ll see like the outside and interior. is it just a case of prime and paint? i’ll be using cellulose as it’ll be a home spray job.
You only use metal ready on bare metal.
If your going to paint the underneath of your car black make sure that you key the black paint before you under seal other wise in time the under seal will just peel off.
Cellulose paint in this weather will bloom, unless you’ve got plenty of heat in your garage. Have you thought about using 2K and buying a paint accelerator such as rocket? You’re still going to need heat just to take any moisture out off the air, plus 2K will give you a much better finish out the gun.
i haven’t looked at 2k to be honest, is it the same thing as 2 pack? trouble is i dont have an air fed mask hence why i was going to use cellulose. I’m sure i remeber seeing some anti-bloom thinners, does this stuff really work when spraying at this time of year?
I can get the garage pretty warm though so it hopefully shouldn’t be to bad. the floors carpeted and i’ve got to do the walls aswell soon. got a gas heater in there aswell which i can use to warm it up, then shut it off while i’m spraying.
Which do you recommend as the best way to sort the underneath of the car out?
sorry for all the questions mate, just want to get as much info as i can before i go buying the paint and F***ing it up
Nick
only problem i can see with carpet on the floor/wall is dust, and you dont want that when your spraying.
when i painted mine i damped the floor with a bit of water to keep the dust down
yeah i’d planned on making a booth of sorts out of big polythene dust sheets on the floor and walls. carpets only there to keep the heat in and make lying under the car nicer
Yeah 2K and 2 pack is the same thing, I don’t blame you for using cellulose if you haven’t got an air feed mask. As long as your garage is warm then anti bloom thinners should be ok? I haven’t used cellulose since I was in collage some 20 years ago lol.
Properly the best way for you to sort the underneath of the car out is to get it on axle stands and go mad with a wire brush, or if you have a 41/2” angle grinder buy a tool called ZIP, This is basically a power wire brush. After wire brushing the underneath then you can underseal it stone guard it.
i’ve done quite a bit of painting now and my current car is a spaceframe, this is obviously to be paited from bare metal, i would recomend you use a very good primer for the bare metal ang make sure it has a rust killer in it, i cant remember the name of the so called “best” one but i will get back to you with it, this is cery good paint to use. cheaper or normal primers will cover any slight oxidisation but it will still slowly grow underneath it so you need to stop it straigt away! The paint is £35 a litre mind instead of £10 but its worth it, realy worth it.
Another thing to do it to stone chip the floor, anyone can do this its simple. make sure you do the wheel arches well aswell.
Also try and weld up the inside edge of any seams like where the a panels are fitted and around the scuttle and front panel or if this isnt possible use some emetal or filler. this should easily ensure a rust free mini in the worst conditions for years.
One last thing i would say is the plastic canopy is great but make sure its big enough!! ha ha! and dont make the mistake i made and cover the floor aswell, this is because where you get overspray it drys and when you come to put your next coat on you kick it it flakes off the plastic flys up and cocks your nice paint work up, obviously its wise not to mask off with anything plastic to
hope this helps and hasn’t bored you to much
Chris
I have to disagree with you on two statements that you’re made.
Statement 1.
Cheaper or normal primers will cover any slight oxidisation but it will still slowly grow underneath it so you need to stop it straight away!
No matter what primer you use it will never stop rust. The only way to get rid off rust properly is to cut it out and plate it or replace the panel all together. Grinding the rust away and treating or converting it is only going to put a stop it from showing for a limited time only.
Statement 2.
Also try and weld up the inside edge of any seams like where the a panels are fitted and around the scuttle and front panel or if this isnt possible use some emetal or filler. this should easily ensure a rust free mini in the worst conditions for years.
By welding up seams you’re going to encourage rust more. Welding produces heat, heat then burns paint, once the paint has been burnt of the inside of a seam welding panel your then left with bare metal inside a seam that you cant treat.
hi, can someone explain what a paint acellerator is?
Cheers
Adam
Paint accelerator is a product that you can put into primers, solid colours and lacquers to help speed up the drying process of the paint.
If you’re going to use it then you only need a small amount of it.
Note:
After you’ve applied your final coat of solid colour or lacquer DO NOT get your painting environment to hot as this will cause solvent pop.
Hey paint man i couldnt agree more mate!
Was just sayin that the paint i was meaning (finigans rust inhibitor i think its called) contains a rust killing agent from which it chemically transforms the iron oxide into a harmless substance i.e possibly an iron phosphate? As you say mind it is going to be wise to remove as much of the oxidisation as humanly possible and leave the paint to do as little as possible?
Also i can see exactly what you are saying about the scuttle area’s etc. Only as i read the project was a bare metal project and there will be no paint to burn off, and as i belive, the majority of body rust starts from the inside of the whel arch?
I am only speaking from my experiances, but this techniqe was used on my da’s friends wining show car and it realy did work for years.
I would imagine from your name that you know an awfull lot about paint so i aint going to argue your probably right, just hope i cleared up why i made those coments and wonder if you still dis agree?
p.s if so can you recomend something to paint a bare metal spaceframe that has a very small amount of surface rust?
Hi Foster, yes rust killers / converters do work.
You have to apply them correctly though. Many people just tickle away at the paint and then slap on the treatment. It’s no good treating rust in a damp humidity like most do, you need a good dry warm workshop / garage for the treatment to work.
Rust is caused in many ways i.e. stone chips, blocked drain holes from sun roofs, drain pipes that stop half way down panels and the dreaded wheel arches that nobody ever cleans.
If you are going to weld seams then I suggest that you buy a produce called weld tough, this is made buy U-Pol and is supplied as an aerosol. Just spray it on both panels that you’re welding together and it will protect them from rusting!!! ???
I’m a qualified car painter and have been for the last 24 years.
Your sub frame get it sand blasted then treat it with POR 15 links are on the forum for that, primer it and the paint it.
Cheers paintman, should get it sorted fairly soon now
fantastic stuff por 15, link above,
also have a look on the web site above, they do some great products/ paints
